A Simple Peening Bench
6″x2″ timber. Length 20 inches
Back Legs (x2)
5″x2″ timber. I used 2 lengths of 16 inches
Spacer between back legs
6″x2″ timber. Length – 6″ (or the same as the width of the seat)
Side Rails (x2)
4″x2″ timber. I used 2 lengths of 15 inches.
Front Leg (x1)
6″x2″ timber, I used one 14 inch length.
Mounting block for anvil / jig
Offcut of 4″x4″ timber or similar
Left – Front leg.
Center – Side Rails x 2.
Right – Back Legs x2
Measure out and cut all the pieces for the bench
The seat length should allow the user to sit in comfort with the knees next to the peening block. I used a 20″ length of 6″x2″, taller people will require a longer seat.
The length of the side rail is the length of the seat minus the width of the back leg.
The height of the bench is calculated such that the user knees are level with the working surface of the anvil when seated on the bench. This means the knees can be used to support the blade whilst peening.
I wanted this bench to be 16 inches high so I cut the two back legs to a length of 16 inches. The front leg is 14 inches long – final height of bench (16 inches) minus the depth of seat ( 2 inches)
Attach pieces together
Attach second back leg and side rail to seat. Attach spacer block between the back legs.
Position and attach front leg.
The front leg is positioned such that it will be directly beneath the anvil on the finished bench. The force of hammering is then transfered directly down the leg
Attach block into which the anvil / jig will be mounted. The size of this block may need to be adjusted to take into account the thickness of your leg.
Mount peening jig or anvil